Vivaness: German natural cosmetics market by far the biggest in Europe

Vivaness was once again a meeting place for the international natural and organic cosmetics industry.  Photo Karin Heinze

More and more consumers are purchasing natural cosmetics in Germany. Over the last two years their number has increased by 1.2 million. The winners benefiting from this trend continue to be the drugstores; the losers include the specialist trade. The turnover of natural cosmetics grew by around 1.2 billion euros. This market data were traditionally presented by natural and organic cosmetics market expert Elfriede Dambacher, naturkosmetik konzepte, in collaboration with the market research companies GfK (Germany) and Information Resources IRI (Germany). Vivaness exhibitors as well as visitors were very international. All events at the Vivaness congress were simultanous translated into English.

Natural and organic cosmetics industry insiders were very excited to know the latest market developments. Elfriede Dambacher talks to the representative of GfK. Photo NürnbergMesse

As well as providing the latest market data, Vivaness presented many product innovations on the 275 stands in Hall 7A, on the joint German Newcomers Stand and in the Breeze exhibition area. Throughout the Vivaness hall many young entrepreneurs, blogger and social media representatives gave a their young face to Vivaness. The hall was a place of innovation, new trendy ideas, scents and beauty.

A new range of deodorant in recycling-packaging atttracted many interested people. Photo Karin Heinze

Natural cosmetics remain the engine of growth

Compared with other market segments, natural cosmetics in Germany, with turnover of 1.2 billion euros, remains by far the biggest market in Europe. Market research data tell us that the other European markets share only a total of approximately 0.8 billion euros. Whereas the conventional German cosmetics market grew last year by 0.5 percent to 13.6 billion (83% market share) and the nature-based cosmetics segment grew by 2 percent (8.2 percent market share), natural cosmetics, with growth of 3 percent, raised its market share to 8.8 percent.

But, although 7.9 percent more natural and organic cosmetic products were sold in Germany last year, turnover was only 3 percent higher. The reasons given by Elfriede Dambacher, naturkosmetik konzepte, at Vivaness are price competition among large-scale outlets (drugstores, discounters, consumer markets) plus the increasing impact of the internet as a sales channel. The market share of  e-commerce reached 6 percent last year. The drugstores continued to increase their market share and, with almost 42 percent, they clearly dominate the market.

The Vivaness Novelty Stand attracted many industry insider. Photo Karin Heinze

German drugstores are the preferred retailers

As Elfriede Dambacher explained, many natural and organic cosmetics customers shop in the German drugstore chains dm, Rossmann or Müller, whereas the traditional marketing channels for natural cosmetics, wholefoods and the specialist health food trade have once again been losing market share and, taken together, account for only 22.3 percent of the market. Even so, they are still the second most important sales channel. For the first time, perfumeries have not increased their turnover. Chemist shops are also experiencing stagnating sales, with the same turnover of natural cosmetics as last year. In contrast, we see a lot going on and significant growth in the mass market. With time-limited offers, the discounters in particular increased their sales substantially.

The international approach of Vivaness was once again very visible. Photo Karin Heinze

Much movement in the trade

Dambacher continued: “The natural cosmetics market increasingly reflects a distribution structure that is typical of the overall picture of trade.” She specified two major issues that play a big part in the changes that are now occurring: first, the listing behaviour has changed. “Because of the high level of concentration in the specialist wholefood trade (chains) a new structure is emerging. Since start-ups find it difficult to get a foothold in the stationary trade, they are going online to expand their market.  This strategy deprives the specialist trade of attractive innovative products,” said Dambacher. Second, something she has been criticising for a long time is the fact that in the specialist trade you often no longer find staff to advise you and sell you the products. In the natural cosmetics department you are frequently left to yourself. “With this approach the specialist trade is unlikely to gain new customers interested in natural cosmetics.”

Amarjit Sahota, Ecovia Intelligence presented the international market data. Photo Karin Heinze

Post mineral oil cosmetics era

A glance beyond the borders of Germany reveals that the global cosmetics industry remains focused on natural cosmetics. Among the international beauty trends are “green& clean”, reducing the CO2 footprint, avoiding waste and recycling, plus the fact that the demand for mild carer products is continuing unabated worldwide. Market watchers maintain that a new post mineral oil cosmetics era is in the offing, caused by the insecurity felt by many consumers and the innumerable scandals around substances in cosmetics that damage our health and the environment, such as plastic in the oceans and mineral oil derivatives in cosmetic products. Given this situation, international niche brands in particular are quick to react to the change in demand and revive the market with exciting trend products that, at the same time, make careful use of valuable resources. They also often involve themselves on a social level. Depending on the definition of natural cosmetics, the volume of the worldwide natural cosmetics market is between 8 and 20 billion US dollars.

Many international companies gathered at the COSMOS and at the NATRUE pavilion. Photo Karin Heinze

Record number of exhibitors

The 275 exhibitors from 40 countries were a new record for Vivaness. Awaiting visitors were over 180 items on the New Product Stand. (www.vivaness.de/neuheitenstand). For the Best New Product Award the specialist visitors voted for their favourites in seven categories. The trends and innovations included products like plant-based hair dyes, anti-pollution care and Asian natural cosmetics. Ten innovative German newcomers introduced themselves on the subsidised joint stand, whilst 23 international newcomers from eight countries took advantage of the Breeze special exhibition area.

The suitable cosmetic to feel good - personalized cosmetics is a new trend. Photo Karin Heinze

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