At last: decision on European natural cosmetics standard

It took several years of negotiations to reconcile all the interests of the important labellers of natural cosmetics in Europe but, since 3 November 2008, the new European guidelines for certified natural cosmetics have been on the internet, and they will come into force in January 2009. The new standard will make it possible to compare products, and the conditions for international trade will be improved. (Pictuer: Francis Blake of  Soil Association in London)

 

“I am glad we are now all on common ground, even though we have not achieved consensus on every point,” Valérie Lemaire (picture on the left) told Organic-Market.Info. She is resposible for cosmetics at the certifying organisation Ecocert in Paris. The text of the new cosmetics standard has been posted on the internet for the next two months so that comments can be sent in and amendments proposed. After a final discussion of submitted proposals the new guidelines will come into force in January 2009. “We are expecting to certify according to the new standard from April 2009,” said Lemaire, who has been involved in the discussions over the years.

Passing the guidelines has brought to an end an intensive round of many discussions by the certification organisations Ecocert (France), the Soil Association (Great Britain), AIAB/ICEA (Italy), Ekogarantie (Belgium) and BDIH (Germany). “With their different approaches, each organisation was intent on seeing its specific requirements reflected in the guidelines,” is how Mrs Lemaire described the problem of devising a harmonised common standard. Francis Blake, who represented the Soil Association in the discussions, was up-beat: “What we finally achieved is very strict.” At a BioFach press conference in London, Mr Blake said that getting there had been a difficult job because of huge differences between the organisations. He pointed out that cosmetics were distinct from the food sector in as far as they did not have to take account of regional differences in production. The rules applied by BioFach had also helped to create an initial foundation on which to build. He said that discussions that took place on the fringe of several BioFach trade fairs had brought the parties closer together.

The overarching European standard applies to two product categories: natural cosmetics and organic cosmetics. The mandatory guidelines that apply across the board define the minimum standard for the organisations participating in the harmonisation process. BDIH explained that the European standard is a common denominator that sets minimum standards and enables comparisons to be made, but it also pointed out that there could still be differences in individual standards. Provided they adhered to the minimum standards, the certifying organisations in individual countries are at liberty to draw up their own guidelines. There are currently no concrete plans to create a common European logo. This European harmonisation of standards for natural cosmetics is the result of several years of deliberations between the representatives of six European organisations that issue logos for certified natural cosmetics. (Picture: Francis Blake)

The European Cosmetics Standards Working Group consisting of seven European organisations (BIOFORUM from Belgium, COSMEBIO & ECOCERT from France, BDIH from Germany, AIAB &ICEA from Italy and SOIL ASSOCIATION from UK) represent manufacturer associations, standards and certifying bodies and consumer associations working in the field of organic and natural cosmetic products. They account for more than 1,000 certified companies, more than 11,000 certified products with certification in more than 38 countries. (Picture: Betty Santonnat from Cosmebio)

“This group came together six years ago to develop a harmonised cosmetics standard”, said Harald Dittmar of BDIH. “This ground-breaking draft is the result of the common effort of these organisations to achieve a set of rules covering all aspects of cosmetic production under either organic or natural certification.”

“With such an important development”, continued Francis Blake of the Soil Association, “we felt it was vital to open the standard up for wide public consultation. We will welcome responses from cosmetics manufacturers, certifiers, associations and consumers.”

“We have based the standard on some simple rules governed by the principles of prevention and safety at all levels of the chain from production of raw materials to the distribution of finished products”, said Rodolphe Balz of Cosmebio. “These rules are:
promoting the use of products from organic agriculture, and respecting biodiversity;
using natural resources responsibly, respecting the environment;
using processing and manufacturing that are clean and respectful of human health and environment;
Integrating and developing the concept of "Green Chemistry" instead of petrochemicals.”

“The standard takes into account the current technological reality while infusing a dynamism that will lead to innovative developments”, commented Valerie Lemaire of Ecocert. “It aims to ensure the transition between today’s and tomorrow’s possibilities of technological advances to promote the development of cosmetics ever more natural and organic.”

“It must also be trusted by consumers”, concluded Riccardo Anouchinsky of ICEA. “They must be informed clearly and transparently, then they can themselves be actors for sustainable development.”

The consultation is open for two months. The working group asks for comments to be sent to info@cosmos-standard.org until 4th January 2009.

Tipp:
http://www.cosmos-standard.org

Riccardo Anouchinsky
AIAB/ICEA
T: +39 010 772 03 17
E: riccardo.anouchinsky@live.it

Harald Dittmar
BDIH
T: +49 6211 294 330
E: bdih@bdih.de

Hugo Baert
Bioforum
T: +32 3286 92 65
E: hugo.baert@probila-unitrab.be

Betty Santonnat
Cosmebio
T: +33 4 75 60 27 40
E: betty.santonnat@cosmebio.org

Valerie Lemaire
Ecocert
T: +33 562 07 34 24
E: valerie.lemaire@ecocert.com

Francis Blake
Soil Association
T: +44 117 314 5000
E: fblake@soilassociation.org