Successful Natural Beauty Summit in Paris, Part 2

The Natural Beauty Summit, the first ever international conference dedicated to Natural Cosmetics and Sustainability, was held in Paris 29-30 November and 1 December 2007. The conference was organised by “Organic Monitor” and the “Beyond Beauty” magazine. Natural and organic products are the fastest growing sector of the cosmetics industry, with sales increasing by about 20 % a year.

Picture: Natural Beauty Summit

Harald Dittmar, Managing Director of BDIH, Germany

He explained that there is no law describing the term “natural cosmetics”. They began certification in 2000, and up to now 100 firms have applied for certification for more than 3000 products. To be eligible for their guidelines you have to be member of BDIH. Both German and non-German firms can become members. They don’t allow ‘alibi” products within a range bearing the BDIH label. A minimum of 60 % of the product range must fulfil BDIH-criteria. Whenever possible, the use of organic plant ingredients, or controlled wild plant sources, is a must. The label doesn’t allow animal testing. Inorganic salts (magnesium sulphate) and mineral ingredients (sodium chloride) are generally allowed. Also allowed is extraction by means of hydrolysis, hydrogenation, etherification, transesterfication or other crackings and condensations of fats, lecithin, lanolin and saccharides. Unacceptable are synthetic colourings or fragrances, ethoxylated ingredients, silicones, paraffin and other petroleum products. Some nature-identical preservatives are allowed, such as benzoic acid, salicylic acids, ascorbic acid and benzyl alcohol. Irradiation is forbidden. www.bdih.de

Helen Taylor, Marketing and Corporate Relations Director of the Soil Association, UK

The Soil Association was founded in 1946 by a far-sighted group of farmers, doctors and concerned citizens. They wanted to link good farming practice with plant, animal, human and environmental health. In 2002, they launched their organic health and beauty care product standard. Helen told us that, in 2006, the UK accounted for 5 % of the 1600 organic cosmetics launched in Europe. But, in the first quarter of 2007, 19 % of the new 1053 organic cosmetics products in the EU were launched in the UK. The Soil Association has certified 80 manufacturers with 2600 products. There is public demand for a chemical-free world. The Soil Association standard means a maximum amount of organic ingredients, minimally processed, complete traceability and avoidance of cross- contamination, minimum damage to the environment and clearly labelled information. The standard applies the precautionary principle. Therefore parabens, phthalates sodium laureate sulphate, nanotechnology and GM technology are not permitted. They have two symbols: “Organic” where 95 % of ingredients are organic, and “With Organic Ingredients” where 70 % or more of the product consists of organic ingredients. The Soil Association is in favour of harmonisation of standards.

Riccardo Anouchisky, International Public Relations Manager, AIAB, Italy.

There are 89 eco-biocosmetics in Italy. It is still a small market but growing fast. For the AIAB norm, raw materials must be natural, and the use of organic ingredients is compulsory whenever possible. The product must be derma-compatible and eco-compatible. Forbidden is OM, PEG, PPG, ethoxylated compounds and surfactants known to be aggressive. All substances that are ecologically doubtful or from animals are forbidden. For example Tea Tree is not permitted in cosmetics in Italy. Animal testing is forbidden; human testing is allowed.

Didy Ward, Consumer Insights Manager, Organic Monitor, UK

Didy introduced us to consumer behaviour towards natural and organic personal care products. In August 2007, Organic Monitor carried out a small-scale survey in health retail outlets. 60 % want to avoid chemicals, and 24 % prefer certified organic or natural care products. 40 % want to avoid synthetic ingredients and 31 % try to buy eco-friendly and animal-friendly products. 36 % buy care products for heath reasons (healthy or less harmful); 33 % for ethical reasons (more for the environment and less for ethical sourcing); 45 % prefer natural to chemical and 49 % look for functionality (efficiency rather than the fragrance of goods). 54 % held that avoidance of chemicals was very important. Parabens, sodium laureth or sulphate, aluminium salts and petrochemicals were associated with harmful chemicals. 35 % look for symbols and 64 % do not. The most frequently sold care products in UK health-stores are Jason (29 %), Weleda (28 %), Dr Hauschka (24 %), Green People (15 %) and Lavera (11 %). The most  frequently purchased  care products are body (39 %), hair (18 %), face (16 %), adult (12 %), oral (8 %) and cosmetics (5 %). 88 % of consumers are female.

Michel Gutsatz, Managing Director and Partner of White Spirit, France

Trends in consumer behaviour were his topic. There was the old-style customer who wanted to rule the world and be at the centre of the world (America); and there was the new customer who wanted to share and be part of the world. This change from old to new customer has been accelerated by global warming, AIDS, sras, ageing, pollution, etc. Health is a growing concern for the new customer. For every health problem he wants one solution (Nestlé and Danone strategy); for the new individual, health and beauty is a duty. We get medicalisation of food (I eat in order to be in good health) and a holistic vision in food (health-food-beauty). 78 % think that the claims made for cosmetics are often exaggerated, 53 % are confused about different claims, and only 53 % of European consumers think those claims are trustworthy. Scepticism about benefits is cited as the most important reason for not buying health and beauty products. 83 % want to buy only natural products. Science cannot replace the benefits of nature, say 70 % of women.

A recent study in October 2007 stated that 17 cosmetics products out of 20 tested had too many risky preservatives. Some manufacturers follow the ‘without preservatives’ trend: no preservatives, no minerals, no synthetic colours, no animal testing, no pesticides. In France there is an old world of organics and a new world of organics. The new world of organics must be modern, positive, vital and universal. Natural, or even better, organic cosmetics are part of the green living trend. Organics manufacturers have to prove their efficiency in the eyes of consumers and be aware of ‘watchdogs’.They should not underestimate the power of consumer associations (the Starbucks experience). Go for green packaging. Michel asked the audience: ‘Will all cosmetics be without chemicals by 2020?”  

Samantha and Stuart Burlton, Founders and Directors of SoOrganic, UK

SoOrganic is a successful E-marketing case study. They call themselves an online organic department store for everyday basic body care products: mainstream products of good quality for the young woman with kids who has no time for normal shopping. They launched their website in February 2005 and generated traffic with search engine Optimalisation (natural top rankings), with sponsored listing on Google, Yahoo, msn and others. 60 to 70 came from Google. They placed ads in magazines and newspapers and, more importantly, they worked together with a PR agency to reach those customers not already online. In their experience, women want info, complete info; so they give them that on their website. Products on the internet must look attractive. Good products but bad pictures make selling difficult. It is important that customers come back again and again. Customer loyalty is important, and for this reason, fast and correct delivery (two days) essential. SoOrganic works: a 10 % monthly increase in sales, € 1.5 million turnover this year, and a 97 % recommendation rate.  They have won a prize as the best delivery Business.

Antonio Argentier, International Operations Manager for L’Erbolario, Italy

L’Erbolario is another success story in natural cosmetics, with Antonio as a real Italian gentleman at the head of the company. L’Erbolario sells to Italian herbal stores. The average herbal store has 1.5 employees. They have 90 % coverage in those marketing channels and a 36.5% market share. With sales in 2007 of € 62 million, and active in 26 countries, they have registered 75 names on the internet. For two years L’Elbolario has been selling an organic line. Four years ago they developed franchising stores to reinforce the brand image. They occupy the best locations, such as main streets or important shopping malls. Antonio said: “We are not smarter than our competitors, but we try to have attractive but cheap packaging”.

Manuela Coroama, Issue Manager Science & Research, Colipa, Belgium 

Colipa helps maintain and develop a sustainable, competitive and respected cosmetics industry in Europe. In Europe Article 6.3 is in force concerning the labelling of cosmetics. There can be no labelling of characteristics unless they actually exist in the product. So only the truth can be told.

A Workshop of natural cosmetics took place on 1 December 2007. 50 people were present to listen to Judi Beerling, Technical Consulting Manager of Organic Monitor, explaining the challenges of formulations and ingredients for natural cosmetics.

NaTrue has been born and aims to be the voice in Brussels defending the interests of the natural cosmetics industry. It is an initiative of Lavera, Logona, Primavera, Santaverde, Dr. Hauschka and Weleda. For more info go to: www.natrue.eu

Natural Beauty Summit is a series of international conferences that focus on Natural Cosmetics & Sustainability. For more details on upcoming conferences in New York (15-17 May 2008) and Paris (8-9 Oct 2008), please email jasmine@organicmonitor.com