Alva: tracking the trends

The natural cosmetics market has long been international and hotly contended. To be successful, a feel for trends is essential: there’s constant demand for new product ideas for which the trade will find shelf space and that work well in markets abroad. On the occasion of its 25th anniversary, Alva is presenting two special innovations. A high-value Sensitive range has recently become available in the retail trade, with the BB Cream in particular showing itself to be a bestseller. In the autumn, Alva is going to put on the market an innovation in the food supplement segment. The firm has high expectations of this new product. (Picture: Jens Schmitt has a feel for trends)
“March 2013 was the best month in our firm’s history,” Jens Schmitt, the managing director of Alva Naturkosmetik GmbH, is pleased to report. “The new products were well received at the trade fairs Vivaness, Natural Products Expo London and BioWest, and we’re having to make a big effort to meet the demand.” Especially with its Sensitive range (picture) and the BB Cream Alva seems to have scored a bulls-eye. As Schmitt comments: “After all, 75 - 80 % of women who shop in organic stores today say they’ve got sensitive skin. Yet there have not been many products in the specialist trade for demanding customers who are prepared to spend a little more on their sensitive skin. This is where we can see a lot of potential, and we want to fill this gap with our product range.” He emphasizes that, at between 20 and 30 euros, the price is not excessive for what the Sensitive range offers. He went on to say that they paid great attention not only to the content but also to the packaging, in order to demonstrate the high value of the product on the shelves.

Schmitt lists the four basic components that determine the effectiveness of the eight products in the Sensitive range: “anti-oxidizing and well tolerated organic plant oils (açai, argan, babaçu), with a high proportion of omega-9 acids and vitamin E, are beneficial for sensitive skin. High molecular hyaluronic acids firm and moisturize; low molecular hyaluronic acids penetrate further into the skin, where they form an anti-bacterial barrier, smooth the skin and combat redness. The patented active agent Beta 1.3/1.6 Glucan has a positive effect on the regeneration and the elasticity of sensitive skin, and finally the hypoallergenic fragrance relieves stress. The mix of pure ethereal oils has been developed on the basis of aroma therapy by the fragrance experts of our French partner Acorelle.” Schmitt is utterly delighted with his new Sensitive range of products.
(Picture: The Sensitive range is a great success with the trade abroad as well – here at the Natural Products Expo in London)

From cleansing, hydrogel and 24-hour skincare, eye and lip care, body lotion, anti-stress oil to mask, this product range provides everything for the care of sensitive skin. However, Schmitt is especially proud of the BB Cream: “The theme BB Cream has only just entered the natural cosmetics segment, and we are one of the first to respond to this trend by offering a certified Blemish Balm.” This multi-talented product represents an all-round carefree package for the skin: the BB Cream conditions the skin, soothes, tones, tints and also provides sun protection LSF 20. Its special effect is tinting: the cream comes out white from the tube but when applied and smoothed over the skin the micro beads burst and tint the skin. Mineral titanium dioxide ensures protection against UV rays. “BB Cream is an all-in-one product with anti-ageing properties, protection against environmental factors and UV rays, with the whole thing being Ecocert certified and containing organic ingredients,” is how Schmitt sums it up. More tinting shades are being planned. (Picture: The whole product range in the Alva and Acorelle brands are on display in the showroom in Bissendorf)

Alva has also reacted positively to the trend to a vegan lifestyle. “We’re one of the pioneers in this segment,” Schmitt explains. “I’m absolutely convinced that we should avoid animal products in natural cosmetics wherever possible because, with very few exceptions, there’s no need for them. This is why we were there at the beginning looking for alternatives, and today we’ve acquired well established expertise in this segment.” About 87 % of the Alva range is vegan and labelled with a vegan logo.

The only animal ingredients used in our product range are beeswax and royal jelly. “We’ll no doubt continue down this route in the future,” Schmitt declares. He considers the EU law banning animal experiments to be a step in the right direction: “It was high time the final stage in the European law on animal protection came into force that bans testing new products on animals in Europe.” But he is convinced that the cosmetics industry will find loopholes. The international animal protection organization Peta has put Alva on its list of recommended companies. (Picture: Graffiti artist René Turrek designed the facade of the new company headquarters)

The relocation of Alva to the business park in Bissendorf (to the east of Osnabrück) two years ago and the creation of two-thirds more space has given a real boost to the company. “We like having enough space, and we feel good in our new premises,” Schmitt explains. As managing director, he has expanded his team and also added Acorelle products to the Alva range. “In our old location we wouldn’t have had the space for the lovely products of our French partner Acorelle. Now we’re delighted we can represent, as their exclusive partner in Germany, their fragrances, care products and special depilatory range. (Picture: The new premises in the business park in Bissendorf provides more space for administration and storage)

Schmitt contemplates the development of the German market with mixed feelings The specialist wholefood trade doesn’t have enough shelf space for the many new products, resulting in cut-throat competition and higher fluctuation on the cosmetics shelved in the stores. He regrets the fact that the development of chains has in many places resulted in a lack of ability to advise customers. For Alva the channels with the highest turnover are, as well as the specialist trade, the natural cosmetics concepts of Budni, Müller and Tegut. The annual discussions with big customers are conducted by Schmitt himself: “It’s the boss’s job.” Total turnover in 2012 was €2.3m, a figure representing a good 20 % growth since 2010. (Picture: Alva on the shelves in an organic shop in Ibbenbüren)

The export markets are a source of great pleasure for Schmitt – he speaks French, English and Portuguese, and he and his family are often in Brazil, which is where his wife comes from. In the last three years, the company’s 41 markets abroad have developed very well. “The most active markets are currently Brazil and England, countries where our marketing partners are particularly committed to selling Alva products,” says Schmitt. As the only German natural cosmetics brand in Brazil, Alva is represented alongside Weleda. “This is only possible with a very good partner in place and because I speak the language. Brazil is currently for us the market with the strongest growth. In the near future, we’ll even see the launch of an Alva Farmacia (picture) in the town where our exclusive representative lives,” reports Schmitt with obvious pleasure.

The British market for the German brand is similarly developing positively. Partner Nic White (ONE Beauty) is a very well known figure in trade circles and has received several awards for his commitment to natural cosmetics. “Partners like these are of great value for us,” says Schmitt. Especially the new Sensitive range with the BB Cream is proving to be very successful in England. Schmitt returned in buoyant mood from the Natural Products Expo in London: “A BB Cream that is 100 % natural - that’s what customers want. Retailers find the elegant look of the product very appealing.” In France, Alva recently acquired a new decorative cosmetics partner – the firm Phyto-Actif - and they have also signed a contract with an American distributor Tezore LLC. New export countries for Alva are Bulgaria and Ukraine. Schmitt finds Poland an extremely interesting market, and he points out that Spain surprised them all in 2012 with double-digit growth. Alva is represented in 41 countries. The share of turnover generated by exports is 32 %.(Picture: Presentation of Sensitive range products in the Nutri Centre in London)

But today brand awareness is created above all by the internet. Alva has been active on Facebook for quite some time. As well as the German Facebook page that Alva operates, the British and Brazilian partners are heavily involved with Facebook pages of their own. “It’s great fun, because we’re in constant dialogue about the latest news, positive reports about our products and pictures. In total, Alva now has over 6,500 fans. An authentic, free but invaluable service is provided by bloggers on various beauty portals (beautyjagd.de, beautyjunkies.de, magi-mania.de) and by contributions on YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgtjplGRui0), in which Alva cosmetics are examined in detail and, including make-up tips, almost always highly praised.

Alva has announced for the autumn a genuine innovation in the field of food supplements. It will then have, together with its acerola and black seed products, a product to strengthen the immune system that has been developed by the Swedish-Norwegian parent company Immitec. “We’ve got great results from studies and outstanding references. We’re going to replace the conventional ingredients with organics and in the autumn we’ll put a capsule in certified organic quality for adults and children in certified organic quality on the German market. This product is really astounding – we’ve tried it out in my family and we’ve come through the winter without any infections.” The target groups will be the wholefood and specialist health food trades.