Innatex: eco-textile industry largely in good spirits

The professionalisation of the eco- fashion industry and the increasing willingness of consumers to buy ecologically and fairly traded clothing are clear to see. From 4 – 6 August 2012, 1,347 trade visitors came to the 31st International Natural Textiles Trade Fair Innatex in Wallau to order clothes, shoes and accessories from the 225 exhibitors. It is pleasing to see a diverse, forward-looking younger generation of designers and young entrepreneurs founding companies. Trade fair manager Alexander Hitzel and many exhibitors found the fair a great success. (Picture: The Innatex fashion show is always a highlight at the fair )
Innatex is going to stay in the Ardek trade fair halls in Wallau. Relocation is no longer an issue. Hitzel is optimistic regarding the Importance of Innatex and its future prospects, and he doesn’t regard the Green Fashion formats that have been created in Berlin in recent years and the exhibition space at BioFach as competition. Innatex wants to make niche ranges like men’s clothing or shoes much more the focus of attention in the future. In Hitzel’s view, the Innatex offensive regarding the eco-quality standards is an instrument of professionalization: “We’re pleased that by now even the exhibitors who were critical of raising the criteria are making an effort and see their future in high eco-quality.” The original time-frame for reaching 50 % of certified materials has been adjusted in the light of the reality of the situation from five to seven years. Although certified cotton is available in sufficient quantities, in the case of wool, silk and other materials there are still bottlenecks. But, as Hitzel points out, the crucial factor is they are all on their way. The criteria are being developed continuously and adapted to what is feasible. The minimum requirement for participation in Innatex is currently proof that at least 25 % of the cotton in the collections is certified organic. However, about a third of the exhibitors are already fully certified in compliance with the IVN and GOTS criteria. (Picture: For fair manager Alexander Hitzel the venue in Wallau is now assured)

The exhibitors are in principle satisfied with the development of business – that’s the message Alexander Hitzel hears from members of the Innatex advisory board and from the exhibitors themselves. In general, the mood is upbeat. They point out that last year, and now in the current season, the climate and the economic situation caused havoc in the whole textile industry. “In the case of Living Crafts the development is ambivalent,” says Frank Schell (picture), the managing director of the eco-textile company in Selbitz. “Stagnating to declining slightly in stationary outlets and especially so in exports, although the online trade saw high double-digit growth.” Living Crafts Natural Textiles exhibited innovations in basics in particular, such as fine wool/silk underwear and function underwear for adults in GOTS quality, a baby range, a programme of untreated nightwear and popeline clothing.

Alongside the collections of the regular exhibitors at Innatex, twelve Design Discoveries, a number of first-time exhibitors and new materials underlined the innovation potential of the eco-textile industry. From the many applications, 12 labels were chosen for the special exhibition DesignDiscoveries. They included the British label Pants to Poverty (picture). The brand for bold and bright women’s and men’s underwear made from fairtrade organic cotton has expanded its offer to four collections a year. New products are woven and rib knit fabrics.

Textile designer Rike Winterberg from Hanover presented her eco-bridal fashion line Elementar for the first time. Other design discoveries were Aikyou from Karlsruhe that showed women’s underwear - fair trade and organic; Alma & Lovis from Bonn, who introduced individual fashions made of kbA cotton, silk, hemp and linen; Atelier Laure Paschoud from Lausanne that presented feminine women’s clothes made from kbA materials, fair-trade and recycled materials; Natural Fashion 
from Brazil, that showed textiles made of cotton in its natural colour. As well as these, there were children’s fashion by Patu, street-wear by Treches, the home-wear collection by Weiss, the children’s shirt label Sweet-Tee and the children’s fashion label of Spiochi in Murnau. (Picture: Versatile bridal fashion made from ecologically correct materials)

The sustainable Swiss brand Switcher and Naturapura from Portugal were among the brands that premiered at Innatex. Switcher is positioning itself with fair production under the logo Made with Respect, and for its Eco-friendly Line it uses organic cotton for T-shirts, polos and sweatshirts. For fleece and softshell jackets, the company makes use of materials like polyester made from recycled PET bottles. The Swiss introduced themselves for the first time at Innatex. From yarn to finished item, the baby fashion of the firm Naturapura is manufactured in Portugal from 100 % untreated, colour-grown cotton that, as tests have confirmed, is tolerated by even the most sensitive skin. In Switzerland and France the brand is already successful, and in Germany the company has sales partners as well. (Picture: Naturapura makes baby clothes for very sensitive skin)

Many young eco-textile firms have been created in recent years. Some have established themselves successfully in the market and at Innatex and they were happy with the trade fair. Armedangels has been in the market for five years. At Innatex, the company from Cologne exhibited a collection that now includes jeans and knitwear. The eco-fashion label is very popular and last year it almost doubled the number of outlets to around 300 in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The German manufacturer of children’s shoes and slippers made from ecological, vegetable-tanned leather Pololo proudly displayed the new certification it has had since March in compliance with the IVN natural leather standard, which is currently the highest eco-standard for leather and leather products. (Picture:Children’s shoes from Pololo carrying the IVN and Eucarp certification)

Selma Yasdut’s judgment of the trade fair was also very positive. Her young jeans label Sey is now attracting the attention of big mail order retailers and important buyers. The person behind the Jaya brand is Julia Mehedintu. She is a Yoga teacher and fashion designer, who creates sensual-casual clothes made from GOTS certified cotton, bamboo and viscose. Appearing at Innatex for the second time, she was pleased with the growing success of her collection, that is made in Kathmandu. (Picture: Jaya brings together yoga experience and fashion)

The creators of the Slomo brand, Felicia and Melchior Moss, said that their brand was developing very positively. (Picture: The Slomo brand of brother and sister Moss is well known beyond Berlin)

The Spirit of OM from the Allgäu region presented a new dyeing and energisation system. The firm, that was founded eight years ago, has developed a process that involves using micro-fine precious stones for energising. Using their experience of feng shui and yoga, Gerd Bauer and his wife produce bio-energetic bed linen, terry towelling and wellness clothing from organic cotton, virgin wool and bamboo. The colours take account of the ayurvedic tridosha colours, whose colour oscillations have a harmonising effect. The customers of Spirit of OM include Bio-Hotels, yoga schools and organic shops. (Picture: Spirit of OM calls its clothing programme Feng Shui to Wear)