Innatex raises profile with stricter criteria

Opening its doors for the 27th time, Innatex presented itself no longer as a specialist fair for natural textiles but as the international trade fair for sustainable textiles. Under the motto Eco is in/natex, 215 exhibitors of clothes, accessories, home textiles, fabrics, toys, cosmetics and much besides gathered in the Ardek-Center in the commercial district of Wallau. The suppliers came from more than 20 countries. At the weekend and on Monday, around 1,500 specialist visitors (170 from abroad) attended the ordering fair. The organizers of Innatex (www.muveo.de) are pleased with the continuing growth in the number of exhibitors and visitors in recent years.
(Picture: Exhibitors and guests in a party mood at this summer's Innatex)

At the 26th Innatex in January, the exhibitors had to comply with the condition that the textiles on show consisted of at least 70 % natural fibres. In future, the acceptance criteria will go even further in this direction. From the spring fair in 2011 the requirement for all exhibitors with a range of textiles will be 10 % of fibres from controlled organic agriculture or from controlled organic animal keeping. In 2012 at least 25 % of fibres will have to be from these two controlled organic sources, and in 2014 it will rise to 50 %. 5 – 10 % of chemical fibres will continue to be permissible. (Picture: Shoe manufacturer Bionat from Alsace already exceeds the requirements, with organic hemp and cotton, soles made of natural rubber and leather that is tanned naturally)

Innatex spokesperson Sabine Lydia Müller explains the raising of the criteria by stages: “The criteria will gradually be adapted to what customers and the market of today require, and in this way we want to make Innatex an attractive platform for young, sustainable eco textile labels.” She says that sourcing organic cotton is no longer a problem. The manager of the fair, Alexander Hitzel, writes in the foreword to the fair’s catalogue: “ In order to take more responsibility for the environment and the people involved in the production processes, many brands are deliberately deciding to use organic cotton, wool from controlled animal keeping, organic silk…sustainability is much more than just the use of natural materials.”  (Bild: Bright colours or natural - the collections at the 27th Innatex offered both)

A number of manufacturers are, however, expressing dismay at these plans. For example, the owner of the firm Invero, knitted products made of merino wool, that has been exhibiting at Innatex for about eight years, does not agree with the phased raising of the percentages from controlled organic agriculture and animal keeping. Her argument is that all buyers know what their customers want, and she says that this view is shared by other exhibitors she has spoken to. Hardly any of them can meet the requirements. She thinks it would be sensible and practical to label the stands as such. She agrees there is no place for artificial fibres at Innatex, but sourcing raw materials from certified animal keeping is difficult and expensive, and this would be reflected in the price. In contrast, the organizers of Innatex are convinced that the new criteria are the right way to enhance the profile of the fair. (Picture: Invero regularly exhibits its merino knitted products at Innatex, but it does not fulfil the new criteria)

Analysis of the recent Innatex fair shows that more than half of the exhibitors are on track: the proportion of certified goods in the various product groups exceeded 60 %. According to the organizers’ statistics, of the 122 collections of womens’s clothes 78 (64 %) were certified and complied with the criteria. In the case of baby and children’s clothes and accessories, the figures were 57 (82 %) and 104 (58 %) respectively. Certification in this context means, for example GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard), Ökotex, Naturland or Fairtrade Standard. (Picture: Fairtrade was represented for the first time at Innatex)

Caroline Raffauf from Cologne has no problem with the requirements. Raffauf Rainwear produces raincoats and rain jackets for women and men from organic cotton (grown in Turkey) which is treated with bees wax or a layer of natural rubber. Her collection made from banana fibre is naturally water resistant. Her successful company has been on the market for eight years and exports to countries in Europe, Japan and the USA. Raffauf is represented at the relevant trade fairs in Germany and is listed, for example, by the retailer Manufactum. (Picture: Raffauf Rainwear uses only eco raw materials)
 

Inge-Merethe Nilsson from Living Nordic in Denmark was really surprised that there were relatively few 100 % organic garments on show at Innatex. Living Nordic was attending the fair at Wallau for the first time with its two brands Eco Nord and Profondita. There was a lot of interest in the GOTS-certified basic, sports and fashion collections, and the two representatives of the firm declared themselves very pleased with their first appearance at the specialist fair. Hitherto, in Germany the label was only represented in Hamburg, but that is set to change. The whole production process – from cropping to processing and tailoring – is carried out in Turkey, and the designs are already being exported to Sweden and Italy. (Picture: Inge-Merethe Nilsson showing one of the best sellers from the Profondita collection)

Frank Schell was delighted with the interest shown in the Living Crafts collection. Innatex is a must for the managing director of this textile company in Töpen, whose 100 % eco collection is marketed EU-wide. For Schell, the best prospects are currently in mail order, in particular selling online is booming. He says that, in contrast, the stationary trade in owner-managed specialist shops is stagnating. Nevertheless, specialist shops still account for the bigger share of his turnover. To exploit the potential of natural textiles in the specialist trade, Living Crafts offers a new concept for wholefood stores. It has developed models for retailers to use in space-saving and flexible centre displays (picture) and up to 15 m² back-wall displays. (Picture: Living Crafts introduces the new sales concept for specialist retailers)

For the fifth time there was a special area devoted to Design Discoveries. By nominating young brands, Innatex is specifically encouraging up-and-coming talent. Eight young firms (4 from Germany, 3 from Austria and one from South Africa) presented their fashions or accessories. Four of the labels are children’s clothes: Theresa Ebner-Lazek, the founder of Wully in Klosterneuburg, is bringing out her first summer collection made from organic cotton (GOTS) for girls from 2 – 8 years old. Jooloomooloo comes from Vienna. The line of underclothes for children from 0 – 6 years by Xiane Kangela is decorated with “fibre creatures and thread figures”, the jooloomooloos that only children can see, and they create ecological awareness in the accompanying picture book. The items are fair trade and certified by Ecocert. (Picture: Designers often prefer certified raw materials for their collections for babies and children)

The mission of Nelia Schutte from South Africa is awareness of the environment and nature, label Keedo: Her company creates fair working conditions and supports numerous projects in South Africa. The number of designs in organic cotton for girls and boys is being constantly increased. With CharLE , Mandy Geddert from Berlin put her timeless, robust children’s clothes made from ecological materials on the market this year.

The youth employment project tag.werk of aid organisation Caritas Steiermark is one of the winners of the Slow-Fashion-Awards 2010. Using eight sewing machines and old materials, up to 15 vulnerable young people produce bags and carriers in unusual designs. Recycling, upcycling and creativity are the agenda here. Also exhibiting on the stand was Kreativithek. Next to them were the two Berlin firms Bio Shirt Company and Format and the recently founded label Tree of Zoe from Hamburg was among the Design Discoveries. (Picture: Unusual bag designs were presented by tag.werk from Graz and Kreativithek)