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Vivaness review: markets, brands and a lot of innovations

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Großer Andrang ab dem ersten Messetag. Foto: NürnbergMesse

Vivaness saw a huge number of interested visitors. Photo Karin Heinze

Vivaness, that was held parallel to BioFach in Nuremberg, is increasingly the international location for the natural cosmetics scene.The markets for natural cosmetics are developingdynamically, both in Germany and worldwide. At the trade fair you could see interesting concepts, new brands and start-ups. The German market was not able to maintain the speed with which it had been growing, but the percentage growth in sales is still significantly higher than that of the total cosmetics market.

Stand des Großhändlers Biogarten

Picture: many interested visitors at the booth of the German specialised distributor Biogarten. Photo Karin Heinze

German market growing more slowly 

The German natural cosmetics market continues to be the natural cosmetics market with the highest sales in Europe. After the brilliant 10 % plus in 2015 the market grew less strongly last year. Also on account of aggressive competition the percentage growth of the  natural cosmetics market was only about half (4.5 %),  achieving turnover of around 1,150 billion euros. Market share comes to 8.5% of the total cosmetics market in Germany, that is worth 13.6 billion euros. The nature-based cosmetics brands were more successful in 2016 than controlled natural cosmetics and registered growth of 7.9 % on a total turnover of 1.09 billion euros. The reason for this was, among other things, attractive marketing concepts and strong niche brands. Taken together, the market share already amounts to 16.5%.

Elfriede Dambacher, Naturkosmetik Konzepte, präsentierte Fakten und Zahlen zur  Marktentwicklung.

Picture: Elfriede Dambacher (naturkosmetik konzepte) presented facts and figures. Photo Karin Heinze

Drugstores the number one place to shop

The German drugstores (dm, Rossmann, Müller), with a market share of 40.9%, are still in the lead among outlets selling natural cosmetics. But all the other marketing channels from perfumeries and retail food outlets to the department stores registered rising turnover. Online shops with double-digit growth rates have a market share of around 5%. The exceptions were the wholefood trade, the health food trade and pharmacies that saw their sales either stagnating or declining. These were the results of cooperation in market research by GfK, Information Resources (IRI), IMShealth and BioVista and they were presented at Vivaness by Elfriede Dambacher (picture), the owner  of the consultancy naturkosmetik konzepte, and by representatives from GfK and IRI.


Baims heißt die Naturkosmetik Marke, made in Brazil, die sich auf der Breeze vorstellte

Picture: Brazilian-German brand Baims at Vivaness. Photo Karin Heinze

Vivaness is where the international natural cosmetics scene comes together

According to Elfriede Dambacher, certified natural cosmetics fared better last year in the international context than in the German market. Seen globally, the mega trend health is continuing to influence consumer behaviour and it offers potential for expanding the natural cosmetics markets.

Of the 259 exhibitors at Vivaness 171 firms came from abroad.  Many came from France (38) and Italy (32), and among the participants from outside Europe were manufacturers from Brazil, Israel, Tunisia, the USA and Australia. The German manufacturers too are turning their attention to markets abroad and they appreciate Vivaness greatly as the platform for maintaining relations with their customers and making contact with new markets.

Internationale Aussteller prägten die Vivaness.

Picture: international exhibitors were very visible at Vivaness. Photo Karin Heinze

Newcomers and niche brands

What was clear from the outset was the internationally oriented marketing strategy of the highly regarded German newcomer in the natural cosmetics scene. At this year's Vivaness the firm Birkenstock seems to have been the wow factor. The presence of the traditional manufacturer of  healthcare footwear attracted a great deal of attention and their spacious stand was continuously surrounded by interested visitors. They wanted to have a good look at the 28-product Birkenstock Natural Care range. The refill packaging with its well thought-out design and cork as its trademark contains BDIH/Cosmos certified face and body care products for women and men. The active ingredient Suberin is extracted from the same cork oaks in Portugal from which the footbed is made for Birkenstock shoes. Another new brand was presented on the Cosmos pavilion: Heinz-Jürgen Weiland, for many years the head of product development at Logocos, presented his Ayluna brand for the first time to the natural-cosmetics public.

Naturkosmetik im Zeichen der Korkeiche, Marke Birkenstock

Picture: Birkenstock Natural Care had a huge booth at Vivaness hall. Photo Karin Heinze


Nearly 200 novelties were displayed on the new products stand. There were also new products on manufacturers' stands, in the Breeze area and on the German newcomers' pavilion, that was supported by the federal government. In the special exhibition area for international niche brands, Breeze, 18 firms from 9 countries (including Australia and the USA) presented their products ranging from face care, body care and hair care to fragrances.

The start-up Zunderschwamm in particular stood out from the others on the German newcomers' joint stand. The active ingredient glucaneo, extracted from tree fungus, is used in both derma cosmetics and food supplements. The firm Shaoyun is pursuing the TCM trend. The following trends that influence natural cosmetics were identified by the experts at Vivaness: fleece masks, products without water, aluminium-free deodorants, activated carbon, Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM), regional ingredients, fermented cosmetics and the continuation of vegan cosmetics.

Ferment-Kosmetik bei der deutschen Firma

Picture: Demeter-certified fermented cosmetics from the German firm I´m Hair Resource. Photo Karin Heinze


Best New Product Award

In seven categories the visitors could vote for the  Best New Products. The winners were:

Facial care: Aloe Vera & Hyaluronic Elixir, N&B Natural is Better S.R.L., Italy

Body care: Speick Organic 3.0 Body Lotion, Speick Naturkosmetik, Germany

Hair care: Nordic Beeries Shampoo Repair,  Urtekram International, Denmark

Make up: Colour Correcting Powder, Wala Heilmittel GmbH, Germany

Special care: Whamisa Organic Sea Kelp Facial Sheet Mask, One Wave, Südkorea

Wellness products: Bio Yoga Mat Spray, Primavera Life GmbH, Germany

Accessoires: Hydrophil tooth brush Etui from bamboo, Wasserneutral GmbH, Germany

Vivaness: Die Gewinner des Best New Products Award

Picture: Vivaness: the winner of Best New Products Award. Photo: NürnbergMesse




Cosmetics & Bodycare

BioFach / Vivaness

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