In-Cosmetics: green trend in raw materials

The international cosmetics ingredients trade fair In-Cosmetics was held at the beginning of April 2014 in Hamburg. About 600 firms offered mainly chemical raw materials, emulsifiers, preservatives, fragrances, perfume, enzymes, etc. But as well as the traditional ingredients used by the cosmetics industry, there is also a trend to green alternatives and ingredients of plant origin. The reason for this could well be the continuing strong rise in demand for natural cosmetics. A small number of firms now specialize in supplying this niche.
 

(Picture: In-Cosmetics was held in Hamburg) 

At In-Cosmetics, there was only limited evidence of the greening of the cosmetics industry, but if you looked hard enough you found exhibitors who specialized in green cosmetics. One insider estimated, however, that only about 5% of the exhibitors at the fair had an offer that was above all of high quality and of interest to manufacturers of genuine natural cosmetics. It isn’t just a question of replacing oil-based materials for cremes and lotions, of alternatives to aggressive synthetically produced preservatives and artificial fragrances but also of alternatives to palm oil, innovative phyto-active agents, botanical discoveries and plant-based instead of plastic peeling materials. (Picture: There were some big suppliers of plant-based raw materials at the fair like the French firm Naturex)
 

The market for natural cosmetics, controlled natural cosmetics and nature-based cosmetics is growing dynamically worldwide. Last year in Germany, the turnover of controlled natural cosmetics amounted to €920m – a market share of over 7%. If we add nature-based cosmetics to this figure, market share comes to almost 15% and turnover to more than €1.9bn (see our earlier report). According to Kline Market Research, turnover in the segment natural cosmetics (certified organic and nature-based) at the manufacturing level is globally around $29.5bn; according to Organic Monitor, the figure for controlled natural cosmetics is over $9bn. The market for organic and natural ingredients is set to grow to approximately $800m by 2017 (2012: ca. $659m) – this is the result of a study by Frost & Sullivan (Analysis of Organic and Natural Ingredients Market in Western Europe for Home and Personal Care). (Picture: The column chart shows the continual growth over recent years. Chart: Naturkosmetik-Konzepte)

Dr. Straetmans has acquired a good reputation in the natural cosmetics industry. The Hamburg company, that in 2014 celebrates its 30th anniversary, also offers a large proportion of its extensive product range of emulsifiers, tensides, preservatives, oil-based and other ingredients in formulations that comply with the demands of natural cosmetics. A number of ingredients are even certified organic. Co-managing director Wilfried Petersen views the task pragmatically: “It’s not easy to meet the requirements of the natural cosmetics standard, but for practically everything needed we’ve got a solution.” Moreover, he sees plenty of scope for innovation. Regarding sustainability, the firm is keen to develop alternatives such as an emulsifier made from rape seed that is free of palm oil. A company brochure makes their commitment clear: “As a leading supplier of basic raw materials for cosmetics, we feel it’s our duty to maintain our environment for future generations.” (Picture: Dr.Straetmans booth at the In-Cosmetics)

The traditional Brazilian company Beraca is well known for its sustainably and fairly sourced raw materials from the Amazon rainforest. The firm, that has been operating worldwide for 55 years, started a programme in 2000 to preserve biodiversity, ensure the sustainable and traceable sourcing of raw materials and improve the living conditions of the population in the Amazon region. At In-Cosmetics, the focus was on Brazil as a raw materials country, and Beraca was the sponsor. The person responsible for North America at Beraca is Dawn Thiel Glaser, and she explained in a discussion with Organic-Market.Info that ethical and sustainable sourcing of raw materials has for about two years been an issue in the mass market. She said they could see this in the number of representatives of big firms in the Amazon region who are on the lookout for both innovative natural raw materials and background stories.

“The companies are really making an effort to get to know the provenance of their raw materials, because consumers increasingly want to know where products come from and whether what goes on is sustainable and fair,” Glaser explained. She pointed out that the potential of the interesting plants in the rainforest is practically inexhaustible. There is currently demand in particular for Cupuacu Butter (the new Shea Butter), Patauá oil and bio scrubs made from the most diverse rainforest fruits (Acai, Andiroba, Buriti, Murumuru, etc.), especially in view of the continuing  discussion about plastic peeling particles in cosmetics. Dr. Straetmans is undertaking the marketing of Beraca in Germany. (Picture: BioScrubs are available from many plants)
 

The Bremen Firm Henry Lamotte is an important German supplier of oils, fats, waxes and base materials, including in organic quality and from its own oil mill. In its April market report, the company states that the situation regarding common plant oils continues to be positive. Katja Baumgarten from the sales team says that the demand for natural and organic raw materials is constantly growing. She too finds one reason for the rising demand is the hotly debated issue of plastic in cosmetics.

Andreas Wälti, the managing director of the Swiss firm Botanica, sees various reasons for increasingly green demand: “Sustainability is quite clearly the overarching theme regarding raw materials for cosmetics. The German market is increasingly demanding certified organic products, whereas in other countries the priority tends to be fairly and sustainably acquired raw materials.” Botanica develops individual plant extracts to meet specific customer requirements, and the family business stocks 1,200 different plants and 25,000 extracts, of which around 6,000 are actively used. About a third of the offer is certified organic. (Picture: Andreas Wälti was satisfied with the interest of the audience)

The experts from the French firm Naturex travel worldwide in their quest for raw materials of plant origin. Medicine hunter Chris Kilham explains that the demand is currently being stimulated by the issue of animal testing and the vegan trend. Sustainability, traceability and trade relations based on fair and ethical social principles are all a part of the Naturex company philosophy. The company headquarters is in Avignon, but Naturex maintains another 15 processing operations in Europe and, for example, Australia, Brazil, India, Morocco and the USA. An innovative collection of active agents from exotic super-flowers has recently become a constituent part in the portfolio of the NAT select^TM Range by Naturex. (Picture: The French firm Naturex is specialized on raw materials of plant origin)
 

In Brazil, the Nasdaq quoted US company Amyris produces the versatile molecule squalane from sugar cane by the process of natural fermentation. As a natural constituent of the skin, Neossance Squalane is one of the best moisture-retaining substances and a natural alternative to raw materials based on oil in cosmetics. Squalane is found widely in nature, occurs in all higher species and is, among other things, an important constituent of skin lipids. The big advantage of Neossance Squalane compared with squalanes from olive oil or fish oil is that it is stable, with no oxidation and  is not in competition with food. “We’re talking here about a crystal-clear, odourless liquid that has a multiplicity of uses,” says enthusiastic Amyris employee Rakesh Jain. For him, the product is an innovative, sustainable, competitive and ideal raw material for the cosmetics industry.